The No. 1 Issue We Find

💧 The #1 Issue We Find (and How to Beat It)

As inspectors with West Egg Inspections & Home Services, we get one question at almost every walkthrough: “What’s the thing you find most often?”

People brace for a dramatic answer—cracked foundations, sinister mold, or some hidden catastrophe. The truth is less flashy and far more common:

Water problems.

Water is a home’s biggest enemy. It sneaks in, hides, and quietly wrecks what you’ve worked hard to build. Roof leaks, ice dams, attic frost, wet basements, plumbing drips, sweating ducts, rotting decks, musty crawlspaces—most of the costly problems we diagnose have one root cause: moisture where it doesn’t belong.

The good news? Most of it is preventable. This guide explains what we see most, why it happens, and the simple steps that keep your home dry, healthy, and durable—whether you’re buying, selling, or staying put.

🧠 Why Water Tops the List

Water is relentless. It moves by gravity, capillary action (wicking), wind-driven rain, air leaks, vapor diffusion, and pressure. It only needs a hairline gap and a little time. Once inside, it:

* Degrades wood (rot) and corrodes metal.

* Fuels mold growth and musty odors.

* Compromises insulation performance.

* Stains ceilings and walls.

* Swells floors and trim.

* Weakens structural members if ignored.

Here’s the kicker: most moisture damage is preventable with basic maintenance—clean gutters, extended downspouts, intact flashing, and yard grading that slopes away from the house. When homeowners lapse on those basics, tiny problems become big, expensive ones.

🔬 How Moisture Moves Through a House

Understanding moisture pathways helps you cut problems off at the source:

* Bulk water (liquid): Rain, snowmelt, leaks, and flooding. Manage with roofs, gutters, downspouts, grading, drains, and flashing.

* Capillary action: Water “wicks” through porous materials (soil, mortar, wood). Break the wicking path with capillary breaks—metal flashings, sill gaskets, vapor barriers.

* Air leakage: Humid air exfiltrates into cold cavities (winter) or infiltrates into cool spaces (summer), condensing on cold surfaces.

* Vapor diffusion: Water vapor migrates through materials from high to low vapor pressure. Slower than air leaks, but still matters in bathrooms, basements, and crawlspaces.

* Condensation: Warm, moist air meets a cool surface—ducts, windows, toilet tanks, uninsulated pipes—and water appears out of thin air.

Control the source, the path, or the surface temperature, and you control moisture.

🏠 Where We See Water Problems Most

🧲 Roofs & Attics

* Typical defects: Missing/loose shingles, failed flashing at chimneys/vents, clogged valleys, absent kick-out flashing where roof meets wall, bathroom fans vented into the attic, poor insulation and air sealing causing ice dams and attic frost.

* Clues: Stains on ceilings, rusty nails in the attic (“nail pops” with frost), dark sheathing, moldy insulation, damp smell.

* Fixes: Repair shingles and flashings, add kick-out flashing, air-seal attic penetrations, insulate to recommended R-values, and ventilate properly (soffit + ridge).

🧱 Walls, Siding & Openings

* Typical defects: Cracked caulk, missing or poorly lapped housewrap, absent head flashing/drip caps over windows/doors, missing weep holes in brick, failed siding clearances to grade.

* Clues: Peeling paint, soft trim, staining below windows, warped siding, interior drywall stains.

* Fixes: Re-caulk joints (correct product for material), repair flashings, verify housewrap integration, maintain 6–8" clearance from soil, add kick-out flashing at roof-wall junctions.

🧊 Ice Dams (Cold-Climate Special)

* Why it happens: Heat escapes into the roof deck, snow melts, water refreezes at cold eaves, forming a dam that backs water under shingles.

* Fixes: Air-seal ceiling penetrations (can lights, bath fans, top plates), increase attic insulation, ensure continuous soffit intake and ridge exhaust, vent bath fans outdoors. Heat cables are a band-aid; air-sealing is the cure.

🧩 Basements & Foundations

* Typical defects: Negative grading, short downspouts, missing splash blocks, clogged footing drains, window wells without covers or drains, cracks admitting seepage, lack of dehumidification.

* Clues: Efflorescence (white powder), damp edges of slab, musty odor, flaking paint, metal rusting, swollen baseboards, mold on stored goods.

* Fixes: Extend downspouts 6–10 feet, regrade to slope away 6" over first 10 feet, seal obvious cracks after drainage improvements, maintain sump pumps (battery backup!), add dehumidifier (40–50% RH target).

🪜 Decks, Porches & Exterior Wood

* Typical defects: Missing ledger flashing, posts set in soil, split or rotted stringers, water-trapping details at handrails and horizontal surfaces.

* Clues: Spongy boards, darkened wood at ledger, loose railings, visible rot.

* Fixes: Proper metal flashing at ledgers, post bases above grade, regular sealing/staining, ¼" spacing between deck boards, replace decayed members.

🚿 Bathrooms & Kitchens

* Typical defects: Fans ducted into attics, weak fans, missing caulk at tub surrounds, leaky traps and supply lines, refrigerator ice-maker lines weeping.

* Clues: Sagging ceilings below bathrooms, staining around tubs/showers/toilets, soft flooring near fixtures, swollen cabinet bottoms.

* Fixes: Vent fans outdoors (not into attic), upgrade to 80–110 CFM quiet fans, run 20–30 minutes after showers (timer switch), re-caulk with mildew-resistant silicone, replace brittle supply lines with braided stainless.

🔧 Plumbing & Mechanical

* Typical defects: Slow leaks at shutoff valves, compression fittings, water heater relief valves dripping, AC coils draining onto floors, missing drain pans/float switches in attics.

* Clues: Mineral trails, corrosion, puddles in furnace rooms, musty closets near air handlers.

* Fixes: Repair/replace valves, ensure TPR discharge terminates properly, clean AC condensate lines, add float switches and drain pans under attic air handlers.

🕳️ Crawlspaces

* Typical defects: Bare soil (no vapor barrier), unsealed vents, wet insulation, wood contact with soil, open sump pits.

* Clues: Musty odor, condensation on ducts, mold on joists, insect activity.

* Fixes: 6–10 mil poly vapor barrier sealed and weighted, consider encapsulation, conditioned or dehumidified air, sealed vents in many climates, tight sump lids.

🧭 What This Means for Buyers (and Sellers)

* For buyers: When we flag moisture, it’s not to scare you—it’s to quantify risk and remedy. Sometimes a $15 downspout extension solves the problem. Other times, stains point to hidden damage that merits further evaluation. Knowing now lets you negotiate repairs, price, or credits, or plan the work with eyes open.

* For sellers: Water stains and musty basements are deal-killers. Address drainage outside, service gutters, fix obvious leaks, run dehumidifiers, and document repairs. A pre-listing moisture tune-up pays dividends.

Our approach at West Egg: We explain likely cause, immediate steps, longer-term corrections, and when to bring in a specialist (roofer, mason, waterproofing contractor, remediation firm).

🛡️ Exterior First: Keep Water Away From the House

🌧️ Gutters & Downspouts

* Clean twice a year (spring/fall) and after heavy leaf drop.

* Ensure downspouts discharge 6–10 feet from the foundation—use solid extensions, not perforated.

* Add splash blocks where extensions aren’t possible.

* Verify hidden underground drains aren’t clogged; daylight outlets if feasible.

🏞️ Grading & Drainage

* Soil should slope at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet away from the foundation.

* Avoid mulch piled high against siding.

* Use swales (shallow ditches) to direct runoff around the house.

* Protect window wells with clear covers; ensure drains at the bottom connect to a proper drain line.

🧱 Flashing & Sealants

* Re-caulk joints annually where materials meet (trim to siding, windows to trim). Use the right sealant for the material.

* Verify kick-out flashing at roof-wall intersections—it’s small and critical.

* Install head flashing (drip cap) over windows/doors without it.

🧗 Roofs & Attics: Stop Leaks Before They Start

* Annual visual check: Look for missing shingles, cracked pipe boots, and debris in valleys.

* Penetrations: Chimneys, skylights, and wall intersections are top offenders. Proper step flashing and counter-flashing matter more than goop.

* Attic air-sealing: Seal around light fixtures, plumbing stacks, top plates, and bath fan housings with foam/caulk before adding insulation.

* Ventilation: Balanced intake (soffits) and exhaust (ridge/gable) prevent attic moisture buildup and reduce ice dam risk.

* Bath fans: Must vent outside through a dedicated duct with an insulated run and proper hood, not into the soffit cavity.

🪟 Walls, Windows & Doors: Details That Shed Water

* Housewrap integration: Flashing tape should shingle-lap with housewrap so water flows outward.

* Sill pans: Catch and drain incidental leaks around windows/doors.

* Masonry weeps: Brick veneer needs weep holes above flashing to drain—don’t plug them.

* Clearances: Maintain 6–8" clearance between siding and soil; 1–2" above roofs and hardscapes.

🌡️ Humidity Management & Ventilation

Moisture isn’t only liquid—humidity matters. Aim for 30–50% RH indoors. Over 60% invites mold and dust mites.

* Basements: Run a dehumidifier from late spring to early fall (or year-round if needed). Drain to a floor drain or condensate pump.

* Ventilation: Use bath/kitchen exhaust while cooking and showering. Consider HRV/ERV systems in tight homes.

* Appliances: Vent dryers outdoors with smooth metal duct; clean lint paths.

* Conditioned air: Avoid closing too many registers; stagnant rooms grow musty.

🧪 Mold & Indoor Air Quality (IAQ)

Mold is a moisture problem first. Clean small areas on hard, non-porous surfaces with appropriate methods and protective gear. Porous materials (wet drywall, insulation, carpet) often require removal. If a large area is impacted or occupants are sensitive, use a qualified remediation professional. Then correct the moisture source—or it will return.

🔎 How We Detect Moisture During an Inspection

* Moisture meters: Pin-type (depth, precise) and pinless (quick screening).

* Infrared (IR) camera: Finds temperature anomalies that may indicate dampness or air leaks.

* Hygrometers & psychrometers: Measure RH and temperature to understand condensation risk.

* Visual & nose: Stains, swelling, discoloration, fungal growth, and odors are valuable clues.

* Verification: We always corroborate IR images with moisture meters or other evidence to avoid false positives.

When needed, we’ll recommend further evaluation—roofing, waterproofing, or remediation specialists—to confirm scope and cost.

🗓️ A Simple Seasonal Moisture Maintenance Plan

🌷 Spring

* Clean gutters after thaw; confirm extensions are attached.

* Inspect roof for winter damage and check attic for frost stains.

* Regrade low spots near foundation.

* Test sump pump and backup power.

☀️ Summer

* Run dehumidifier (40–50% RH target).

* Wash and inspect siding; re-caulk as needed.

* Check irrigation heads—keep spray off siding and foundations.

* Seal deck boards and inspect ledger flashing.

🍂 Fall

* Final gutter clean; leaf guards if trees are heavy.

* Extend downspouts ahead of snow season.

* Air-seal attic penetrations; top off insulation.

* Check weatherstripping to limit humid indoor air exfiltration into cold cavities.

❄️ Winter

* Use bath fans with 20–30 minute timers.

* Monitor for ice dams; carefully remove excess roof snow near eaves if needed.

* Watch indoor RH—keep ~30–40% in cold snaps to reduce window condensation.

* Inspect for frost in attics on very cold mornings.

💵 Rough Cost Ranges (Ballpark)

* Downspout extensions & splash blocks: $15–$100 each

* Gutter cleaning (pro): $125–$300

* Kick-out flashing retrofit: $150–$400 per location

* Re-caulking windows/doors (DIY materials): $50–$200 per elevation

* Dehumidifier (quality basement unit): $250–$450

* Sump pump replacement: $300–$700 (backup systems more)

* Roof leak repair (minor flashing): $250–$800

* Attic air-sealing + insulation upgrade: $1,500–$4,500+ depending on size and access

* Interior remediation after chronic leaks: Highly variable — prevention is far cheaper

*(Every home and market differs; we include these to help prioritize, not to quote.)*

🧰 Buyer & Seller Playbooks

👩‍💼 Buyer Quick Wins

* Ask for gutter/downspout corrections and proper grading if we find wet foundation walls.

* Request licensed roofer evaluation for active roof/attic moisture.

* Budget for dehumidification in basements.

* Investigate stains with seller documentation or **further evaluation** before closing.

🧑‍🔧 Seller Prep Steps

* Dry the basement: Run dehumidifier; address extensions and grading.

* Service gutters / roof: Clean and repair visible defects.

* Fix obvious leaks: Under sinks, around toilets, at water heater.

* Document repairs: Receipts and photos build buyer confidence.

📚 A Real-World Mini-Case

A client called us for musty odors in a finished basement. There were no visible leaks. We used IR to spot a cool stripe along the base of the north wall after rain. Pin-type metering showed elevated moisture ¾" into the drywall. Outside, we found downspouts terminating within two feet of the foundation and the lawn sloping toward the house.

Remedy:

1. Installed 10-foot solid downspout extensions and regraded soil to slope away.

2. Cut a 16" strip of drywall at the base, removed wet insulation, and disinfected.

3. Sealed a hairline crack after the exterior work.

4. Added a basement dehumidifier and sealed the sump lid.

Two weeks later, moisture readings dropped to normal, odor was gone, and they saved thousands by correcting the source rather than defaulting to interior drain tile right away.

🧭 The Takeaway: Control Water, Control Costs

Water rarely bursts in with fanfare; it seeps in quietly and stays. That’s why, at West Egg Inspections & Home Services, we focus so much attention on moisture management during your inspection. When we call out a water issue, it’s to clarify risk and outline a plan — often a simple one.

* Keep water away from the house (gutters, downspouts, grading).

* Keep the house ready to shed water (flashing, caulk, roof care).

* Keep indoor humidity in check (ventilation, dehumidification).

* Investigate stains and musty odors early— small fixes beat big repairs.

🤝 How West Egg Inspections & Home Services Can Help

* Whole-home inspections with a moisture-first lens.

* Moisture diagnostics: IR scanning, targeted meter testing, and attic/basement assessments.

* Seller pre-listing checks: Fix the red flags before buyers see them.

* Maintenance coaching: We’ll tailor the seasonal checklist to your home.

If you’re seeing stains, smelling must, or just want peace of mind, we’re here to help you keep water in its place — outside your home.

✅ Quick Action Checklist

* Clean gutters; add 6–10' downspout extensions.

* Regrade soil to slope away; protect window wells.

* Inspect roof & flashings; add kick-out flashing where missing.

* Re-caulk windows/doors; maintain siding clearances.

* Vent bath and dryer outside; add timer switches to bath fans.

* Run a basement dehumidifier to 40–50% RH; seal sump lids.

* Air-seal attic penetrations and improve insulation/ventilation.

* Fix leaks now, not later—future you will thank you.

Water might not be the most dramatic discovery in a home inspection, but it’s the one we see most often—and the one you absolutely don’t want to ignore. With a little attention and a good plan, you can keep your home dry, healthy, and strong for years to come.